Brewed in Britain: A Concise History
Originally Published: 16 April 2020
A strange aroma lingers the streets of Oxford. Therein lies a dim-lit, modestly sized room, clustered with wooden tables. It’s the year 1650 and the first coffee house has opened in England. London, being the competitive spirit it is, opens its first not long after- in 1652. Soon, several coffee houses open in Oxford and London. And so begins the Tale of Two Cities, a very British tale, the tale of the Coffeehouses.
These coffeehouses became known as 'Penny universities'- for a penny- one could buy a cup of coffee and gain an education at the same time. A range of subjects were discussed at these penny universities: the news, politics, philosophy, the sciences and even the most thought provoking subject of any decade- gossip. These coffeehouses became a forum for intellectual thought and discussion, attracting highbrow members from their respective fields. For instance, the Grecian Coffeehouse was popular with members of the Royal Society, including Isaac Newton, who once dissected a dolphin on one of its coffee tables. Certainly not a common sight at your local Starbucks.
Coffeehouses also became an early emblem of liberty. William H. Ukers in 'All About Coffee' describes them as "a debating society for the dissemination of republican opinions." This of course, did not sit well with Charles II. The Stuart Monarch certainly did not appreciate the emanation of political expression, which he likened to treacherous speech. His Secretary of State went as far as to send a network of spies into London coffeehouses. In December 1675, Charles' himself attempted to close down all coffeehouses in London; his 'Proclamation For The Suppression of Coffee Houses' was very unpopular and hence ultimately revoked. This was symbolic of the Monarchy's dilution of power and foreshadowed the appeal of democratic ideals. Indeed, Charles was not completely irrational in his fears. In 'The early history of coffeehouses in England', Edward Forbes Robinson includes the contents of a 1677 pamplet which read: 'none dare venture into the coffee houses unless he be able to argue the question whether Parliament were dissolved or not.'
However, this metamorphosis to what would later be known as the Age of Enlightenment did little to nudge the social hierarchy; capitalist patriarchy remained unhindered. Poor people could not afford the fee of the Penny Universities and so remained socially excluded from these discussions. While some Coffeehouses explicitly excluded women, female sex workers displayed a presence in others to acquire clients. For these reasons, many women would not set foot in a Coffeehouse. Now unthinkable for us female coffee-lovers who occupy an entire four-seater at Costa. And occasionally, the entire 6 seater round-table at Starbucks.
It appears that women also shared Charles' contempt for Coffeehouses. Though, their reasons did not include an anxiety of parliamentary democracy. Some were annoyed that their husbands were spending too much time at the Coffeehouses whilst others were concerned that coffee was having a negative impact on their husbands' libido. Their dissent was voiced through 'The Women's Petition Against Coffee'. In a truly entertaining section of this iconic document, the women describe how their husbands "spend their Money, all for a little base, black, thick, nasty, bitter, stinking, nauseous Puddle-water." The descriptive nerve. Puddle-water.
However, this is not the only narrative. Historiography is the study of different perspectives in history. By exploring different narratives surrounding an event, we can gain a more informed view and become less susceptible to biased sources. Thus, it's worth noting the differing view of historian Steve Pincus, who argues that the petition may not have been written by women at all or represented their views on Coffeehouses. Rather, he argues that the petition was drawn up to discourage the popularity of coffeehouses. Re-calling Charles' dramatic reaction, this view does seem plausible.
The next time you're studying in a café and feel a sudden surge of motivation after sipping your coffee, know that you're partaking in a tradition traced back hundreds of years- to the rich white man. How history haunts us. At least our ghosts are intellectuals.